White paper

SusDeP-Tex - Sustainable Degumming Pathways for Plant-Based Textile Fibres 

Abstract

More than two-thirds of global fibre production consists of cost-competitive fossil-based synthetic fibres [1]. To advance towards a biobased and circular textile economy, this dependence must be significantly reduced. One possible pathway is the increased use of natural fibres. Around 78% of the natural fibre market is currently represented by cotton [1]. Cotton offers several favourable textile properties, nevertheless, its cultivation can require substantial amounts of water and is associated with intensive pesticide and fertiliser use [2]. Against this background, other plant-based fibres represent promising alternatives. Plant fibres such as hemp can offer good mechanical properties while requiring less water and fewer agrochemical inputs than cotton. However, they contain non-cellulosic components, such as pectin, that bind the elementary fibres into bundles and hinder further textile processing [3]. The controlled removal of these components is referred to as degumming and is necessary to make the fibres suitable for textile applications. Degumming, therefore, represents a central bottleneck, as it must improve fibre separation and flexibility while preserving fibre strength [4]. Addressing the degumming bottleneck requires a systematic comparison of plant fibre characteristics, textile requirements and available degumming technologies. Therefore, this White Paper will establish the scientific basis for the sustainable degumming and processing of plant fibres for textile applications. The analysis will consider fibre composition, gum chemistry, structural properties and reported degumming processes. Based on the non-cellulosic components and structural features that influence fibre cohesion, separation and processability, material-side requirements for degumming will be defined. Conventional benchmark processes and other sustainable routes will then be assessed against this target profile. The resulting framework will define the key interdisciplinary research gaps and show how the complementary expertise within the BioSC can be combined to establish a distinctive research profile in sustainable plant fibre processing. 

Partners

Dr. -Ing. Leonie Beek, ITA - Textile and Technology Engineering, RWTH Aachen
Dr. Phillip M. Grande, IBG-2: Plant Sciences, Forschungszentrum Jülich

Funding Period

01.07.2026 - 31.12.2026

Funding

SusDeP-Tex is part of the NRW-Strategieprojekt BioSC and thus funded by the Ministry of Culture and Science of the German State of North Rhine-Westphalia.